Icons, new stars and First Nations excellence: 10 key shows from New Zealand fashion week
New Zealand fashion week took place in Auckland this week at the heritage-listed Shed 10 on Waitemata harbour and other venues across the city. Founded by Dame Pieter Stewart in 2001, now run by entrepreneur Feroz Ali, the 25th anniversary featured a mix of established names, exciting newcomers and a dramatically enhanced Indigenous program. The event boasted three separate group showcases of creatives from not just the Pacific region, but India, Taiwan and the US, in addition to the inaugural New Zealand Indigenous fashion symposium.
Karen Walker
The queen of Kiwi cool, Karen Walker, staged a takeover of the Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tamaki on Wednesday evening to present a showcase called the Grand Tour which featured “current, future and archival” looks from the Karen Walker label, alongside sneakers and streetwear designed for her longtime collaborators Adidas Originals and Levi’s, including customised Japanese denim pieces for Levi’s Blue Tab line.
Claudia Li
Aotearoa’s most exciting “new” fashion name, Claudia Li is a Chinese-New Zealander who studied at London’s Central Saint Martins and later worked with JW Anderson and Brandon Maxwell on the Haus of Gaga label, before launching her eponymous line in New York in 2015. Her label has been worn by notables including Michelle Obama, Bella Hadid and Lady Gaga. Li now calls Auckland home once again, after returning during the Covid-19 pandemic. Known for her romantic, full-blown silhouettes, she unveiled a brand new made to order collection of sculptural silk taffeta wedding dresses and occasion wear.
By Kai
Makaira Lee, an Auckland-based stylist and art director who has worked with brands including Ruby and YOUKNOW, unveiled her first collection on Thursday under the brand name By Kai. Tapping into her Fijian heritage, the minimalist women’s and men’s cotton and silk resort wear line came in a palette of ecru, khaki and olive green, with pops of canary yellow and a vintage blue and white floral fabric. It was styled back with accessories made from traditional Fijian woven voivoi (pandanus). Of note: a standout khaki safari jacket with a Nehru collar, teamed with matching cargo pants featuring deep side pockets.
Jung-Ying
Originally from Canberra, William Fitzgerald moved to Wellington in 2012 to further his dance studies and two years later joined the Royal New Zealand Ballet Company. There, his other passion – making his own clothes – caught the attention of, among others, choreographer Loughlin Prior, who commissioned him to make costumes. The Australian-born designer ditched dancing in 2018 to work for Zambesi, then attended the Whitecliffe school of fashion and sustainability. Jung-Ying is the name of his new menswear label, a nod to his Chinese-Malaysian heritage (and in fact his middle name). Collection One, which features fluid tailoring crafted from deadstock and upcycled fabrics, is being sold at Auckland multi-brand concept boutique The Shelter.
Iti Clothes
Another of the week’s revelations – also with Australian connections – is Iti Clothes, founded by Christchurch native Jeorge Bradford in 2023. A graduate of University of Technology Sydney and now based in Moss Vale in the NSW Southern Highlands, he makes every garment himself, in a back yard studio. An elevated, genderless streetwear brand made entirely out of cotton drill and poplin, in vibrant primary colours, all Iti Clothing designs come in one size. From boxy short-sleeved shirts to voluminous balloon pants and shorts, the pieces often feature intricate woven panels and cotton tape trims.
Kahui Collective
Kāhui Collective, founded by Kiri Nathan, staged their biggest group show to date on Thursday. The nearly two-hour presentation showcased 16 Māori and Indigenous designers from places including Australia, Fiji, Taiwan and Alaska. Highlights included the McQueen of Māori fashion, veteran artist, designer and weaver Shona Tāwhiao, who sadly said it may be her last runway presentation. There was also a debut collection from Āhuru, a label from Māori designer Natalie Robb, which features labour-intensive knits crafted using generational hand-spinning techniques.
Twenty Seven Names
Twenty-Seven Names hasn’t shown at NZFW since 2018. For their big runway return founders Rachel Easting and Anjali Burnett went back to school – incidentally the duo originally met at primary school in Wellington. The collection was replete with collegiate references, from varsity jerseys to tunics layered over blouses with schoolgirlish Peter Pan collars and academic gowns for the finale. A striking series made from deadstock fabrics included a mid century-look miniskirt suit in mint green and a lime mid calf-length trapeze coat made from 100% nylon.
Zambesi
The weather shined on Auckland this week, with sun every day. For Zambesi, clear skies injected absolute wow factor to their Friday morning show at an events space called Okahu, with near 360 degree views of Auckland harbour. The adjacent 200-metre-long Ōrakei Wharf became Zambesi’s runway, providing the perfect backdrop to their spring 2026 collection, Song to the Siren. Featuring featherlight tunics and separates in soft tulle, mesh and silk in a delicate colour palette of sea foam, aqua and mint green. They were layered with fluid tailoring accented with fringing and raffia details, which fluttered in the breeze. Pure magic.
Nom*D and Plume
Margi Robertson – sister of Zambesi creative director Liz Findlay – held an intimate show inside Kingy restaurant. The presentation was split in two: first up, showing new pieces at Robertson’s iconic Dunedin multi-brand boutique Plume, from international names including Ann Demeulemeester, Comme des Garçons and Undercover. Then came Robertson’s own Nom*D line, its milestone 81st collection, which popped with primary colours and superhero-style cartoon graphics. Retro swing jackets, trench coats and bombers were teamed with two-tone sack dresses, boxy skirts and culottes and some adorable Brady Bunch striped skinny knits.
Beach Brains
It’s been a while since a Stolen Girlfriends Club show rocked New Zealand. Lately, SGC co-founder Dan Gosling has teamed up with Jody Coggan to grow lowkey local brand Beach Brains. The new label’s very first NZFW show definitely had the same vibe as Stolen Girlfriends Club’s wild punk runway presentations. Totally packed, the audience pumped, models charged out to a deafening soundtrack in a collection of relaxed tailoring, workwear, grungy plaid flannels and patent leather jackets, shirts and shorts. Designed “for the space between the beach and the city”, this elevated streetwear line only makes menswear, but women are buying it, Gosling said backstage. We also hear someone threw up in the front row. Party on.
