Advice | Can plant-based bacon be as good as the real thing? We tested it.

Savory, crispy, crunchy, fatty, smoky, salty.

Bacon embodies the pinnacle of meaty perfection for millions of people. It’s both highbrow and down-home: a star at fancy brunch spots and a staple on 68 percent of fast-food restaurants’ menus. Its aroma can recall childhood Sunday mornings, and enhance everything from salad to scallops.