For a better turkey burger, smash it

I couldn’t remember the last time I ate, let alone cooked, a turkey burger. I vaguely recall my mother making them once during my childhood, probably drawn to the ground poultry for its purported nutritional benefits compared with beef. (However, “when the lean meat-to-fat ratio of ground beef and ground turkey is the same, their nutrition profiles are very similar,” dietitian Carolyn Hodges wrote for EatingWell. More on fat content later.)